DEMODEX
DEMODEX
by Cat Donnelly, Pet
Nutritional Consultant
by Cat Donnelly, Pet
Nutritional Consultant
Demodex is not a genetic disease.
Demodex mites feed on systemic yeast
in the body, and the systemic yeast
feed on the dietary yeast and/or sugar
in the system (blood sugar). As you will
see, my method of dealing with
demodex is to starve the mite by taking
away it's food source, which is the
yeastie beastie. Without this food
source, the demodex will easily die off
without dipping or insecticides of any
kind.
Demodex mites take advantage of an
immature or lowered immune system
which is why the very young get it, and
sometimes the very old or ill. A dog's
immune system is not fully mature until
at least one year, sometimes longer.
This is only one reason why it is NOT
advisable to breed dogs younger than
18 - 24 months minimum.
Demodex mites are living in just about
every dog, deep within the hair follicles.
When pups are nursing, the mites
migrate from the mom to the pups. This
is why the most common areas to show
demodex first are on the face, head and
front paws, and then they migrate to
every other area of the body.
When the immune system is maturing
but battling to keep the mites in
balance, you can sometimes see
hairless patches appearing and
disappearing on different parts of the
body. It may even progress to the point
where the mites colonize and erupt on
the surface, making the skin look
pimply or rashy.
Demodex mites feed on systemic yeast
in the body, and the systemic yeast
feed on the dietary yeast and/or sugar
in the system (blood sugar). As you will
see, my method of dealing with
demodex is to starve the mite by taking
away it's food source, which is the
yeastie beastie. Without this food
source, the demodex will easily die off
without dipping or insecticides of any
kind.
Demodex mites take advantage of an
immature or lowered immune system
which is why the very young get it, and
sometimes the very old or ill. A dog's
immune system is not fully mature until
at least one year, sometimes longer.
This is only one reason why it is NOT
advisable to breed dogs younger than
18 - 24 months minimum.
Demodex mites are living in just about
every dog, deep within the hair follicles.
When pups are nursing, the mites
migrate from the mom to the pups. This
is why the most common areas to show
demodex first are on the face, head and
front paws, and then they migrate to
every other area of the body.
When the immune system is maturing
but battling to keep the mites in
balance, you can sometimes see
hairless patches appearing and
disappearing on different parts of the
body. It may even progress to the point
where the mites colonize and erupt on
the surface, making the skin look
pimply or rashy.
Don't bother with Goodwinol ointment
because it is worthless, in my experience.
You would get better results from dabbing
lemon juice or apple cider vinegar on the
spots, or spraying with colloidal silver.
Apple cider vinegar will keep the odor
down from any secondary staph infection.
Yeasty ears will commonly be a problem
during this battle.
The reason why vets and others say that
demodex is genetic is because they are still
working with the old information, and even
with the knowledge that it is a mite, it is hard
to break that habit. Other possibilities are:
1) They must not understand the life of a
demodectic mite. Demodex is not in the
genetic make-up in any way whatsoever.
There is no genetic mutation or genetic
marker that causes demodex. The immune
system is a living thing that can be raised or
suppressed, it is not fixed. The mite is an
opportunistic parasite only, and can be
eradicated completely.
2) they also must not understand how the
body can be helped to fight demodex off on
it's own (through diet and supplementation),
without toxins taken internally and applied
externally which have long-lasting and
detrimental effects.
3) they must not understand the role that
diet has on the immune system and therefore
the demodectic mite. While demodex was
once a rare state of dis-ease, generations of
being fed kibble and overzealous
vaccination programs wear down the
immune system of each successive
generation until today you hear about
demodectic puppies all the time.
You can take a dam who has produced an
entire litter of demodectic pups, put her on a
grainless raw diet (a la Kymythy Schultze)
with supplementation for a year, breed her
again and she will not produce any
demodex in the subsequent litter. I know,
because I've done it. If it were genetic, or in
the genes, it would not matter WHAT I fed
her, at least a certain percentage of her pups
would have it.
So, if a breeder had fed BRAND X dog
food and followed the old vaccination
protocols for several generations, and her
dogs have subclinically (no outward signs)
been getting weaker immune systems, then
to the naked eye it would logically look like
the problem is genetic. This particular dam
starts spontaneously producing litter after
litter of demodex pups in a line that had
previously been clear of it, but it's
manageable so they keep breeding her
anyway.
because it is worthless, in my experience.
You would get better results from dabbing
lemon juice or apple cider vinegar on the
spots, or spraying with colloidal silver.
Apple cider vinegar will keep the odor
down from any secondary staph infection.
Yeasty ears will commonly be a problem
during this battle.
The reason why vets and others say that
demodex is genetic is because they are still
working with the old information, and even
with the knowledge that it is a mite, it is hard
to break that habit. Other possibilities are:
1) They must not understand the life of a
demodectic mite. Demodex is not in the
genetic make-up in any way whatsoever.
There is no genetic mutation or genetic
marker that causes demodex. The immune
system is a living thing that can be raised or
suppressed, it is not fixed. The mite is an
opportunistic parasite only, and can be
eradicated completely.
2) they also must not understand how the
body can be helped to fight demodex off on
it's own (through diet and supplementation),
without toxins taken internally and applied
externally which have long-lasting and
detrimental effects.
3) they must not understand the role that
diet has on the immune system and therefore
the demodectic mite. While demodex was
once a rare state of dis-ease, generations of
being fed kibble and overzealous
vaccination programs wear down the
immune system of each successive
generation until today you hear about
demodectic puppies all the time.
You can take a dam who has produced an
entire litter of demodectic pups, put her on a
grainless raw diet (a la Kymythy Schultze)
with supplementation for a year, breed her
again and she will not produce any
demodex in the subsequent litter. I know,
because I've done it. If it were genetic, or in
the genes, it would not matter WHAT I fed
her, at least a certain percentage of her pups
would have it.
So, if a breeder had fed BRAND X dog
food and followed the old vaccination
protocols for several generations, and her
dogs have subclinically (no outward signs)
been getting weaker immune systems, then
to the naked eye it would logically look like
the problem is genetic. This particular dam
starts spontaneously producing litter after
litter of demodex pups in a line that had
previously been clear of it, but it's
manageable so they keep breeding her
anyway.
When her pups are bred, they produce all
demodex pups, only worse cases. Clearly
this must be due to a "bad gene." This
logic is as good as seeing birds fly south
in the winter and deducing that ALL birds
fly south for the winter. It might initially
appear to be true, but further investigation
tells you that it is not. Mites are not a part
of any gene, so that statement doesn't
even make sense. It's the immune system
that is inherited, not the particular disease.
demodex pups, only worse cases. Clearly
this must be due to a "bad gene." This
logic is as good as seeing birds fly south
in the winter and deducing that ALL birds
fly south for the winter. It might initially
appear to be true, but further investigation
tells you that it is not. Mites are not a part
of any gene, so that statement doesn't
even make sense. It's the immune system
that is inherited, not the particular disease.
The problem with their logic is that you can take this line
and turn it completely around through upgrading their diet
and modifying the vaccination schedule, or eliminating
vaccines altogether. Switch to a better kibble. Give healthy
snacks like sliced melon or peeled apple slices that have live
enzymes instead of biscuits which are a "dead" food. Give
good quality supplements.
The best possible scenario, in my opinion, would be to feed
grainless BARF (biologically appropriate raw foods).
Anyone wanting to pursue that diet should have Kymythy
Schultze's book on the subject. Home cooked is also a very
good regimen to raise the health of our companions if it's a
choice between that or any kibble. A book I highly
recommend is Dr. Pitcairn's Complete Guide to Natural
Health for Cats and Dogs.
Okay, so now that we have established that demodex could
not possibly be genetic, let me say that it is "congenital" in
that a sub-standard immune system is passed on from the
mother to the pups, and the mites can migrate to the pups
from the mom shortly after birth. After generations of being
fed kibbles, which are a "dead" food, the mom will have
little immunity to pass on to her pups, and she will harbor
plenty of demodectic mites in her pores ready to migrate to
the pups that her own immune system is keeping in check.
That is the sum total of the relationship between demodectic
mites and how it is "inherited" from the mom by her pups.
So, you HAVE demodex and don't know what to do about
it? Can it be treated naturally? YES! In fact, I would highly
recommend it. The conventional path is highly toxic (as
evidenced if you've ever seen a dog after it's dipped) and
can keep your pet's immune system weakened for life.
There is usually absolutely no reason for this, in my
experience.
Here is the holistic protocol:
1) Feed an anti-yeast diet (LINK TO ALLERGY/YEAST
ARTICLE). Mites feed on the systemic yeast or yeast living
in the body, and systemic yeast feed on nutritional yeast and
sugars (carbohydrates). If you break the cycle, you weaken
or starve the systemic yeast and then the mites cannot
colonize in the pores, crowding and pushing out the hairs
and migrating to other pores looking for food.
This is the reason for grainless diet (ESPECIALLY NO
WHEAT OR NUTRITIONAL YEAST OF ANY KIND)
with only meat, bones and low glycemic fruits and veggies
(green leafy, not root veggies), or in other words, only
foods that do not readily raise your pet's blood sugar.
Plain kefir is a wonderful anti-yeast food, in moderation.
Plain yogurt is a secondary substitute.
Acidophilus/lactobacillus (pro-biotics) supplementation is
preferred because overall, dairy will feed yeast. No cheese,
no cottage cheese. If grains have to be used, make sure
they are whole grains and not refined. No sweeteners of any
kind, including molasses, honey, etc. Many have reported
good results from supplementing with Immune Factor
bovine colostrum, which is a pro-biotic that works in the
lower digestive tract.
If feeding kibble, I would recommend Flint River Ranch
Lamb/millet/rice kibble. This can be ordered by calling
(909) 682-5048 and telling them you were referred by
distributor AK53 (Cat Donnelly). If you have a hard time
getting through, I would be glad to call your order in for
you. Your food will come via UPS. Be sure to have me
send you the feeding guidelines since you feed so much less
than most commercial foods. The cost "as fed" should work
out to be very close to most commercial kibbles, even
though the cost per pound is more.
2) Make sure the pup gets LOTS of rest! This is crucial. If
the pup is in a high traffic area, it is important to put a crate
in a quiet room and give him frequent rest periods.
3) Fresh air and sunshine are very therapeutic. Regular
exercise and playtime is a must. Think HEALTHY. Do
what the dog loves. Channel his energies by training him,
teaching him tricks. Oxygenating the blood is an important
part of an anti-yeast regimen. Yeast thrive in moist, dark
places with little to no oxygen.
4) NO STRESS. If you are in a stressful relationship, make
a choice, the partner or the pup must go for the good of the
pup. I am dead serious. You may be faced with giving the
pup up to a better home for his/her own good if you are not
willing to give up the partner. If your pup has a high stress
personality, perhaps some Primorye Pet would be in order.
Go to oxyfreshww.com and use 180606370 as the referring
distributor.
and turn it completely around through upgrading their diet
and modifying the vaccination schedule, or eliminating
vaccines altogether. Switch to a better kibble. Give healthy
snacks like sliced melon or peeled apple slices that have live
enzymes instead of biscuits which are a "dead" food. Give
good quality supplements.
The best possible scenario, in my opinion, would be to feed
grainless BARF (biologically appropriate raw foods).
Anyone wanting to pursue that diet should have Kymythy
Schultze's book on the subject. Home cooked is also a very
good regimen to raise the health of our companions if it's a
choice between that or any kibble. A book I highly
recommend is Dr. Pitcairn's Complete Guide to Natural
Health for Cats and Dogs.
Okay, so now that we have established that demodex could
not possibly be genetic, let me say that it is "congenital" in
that a sub-standard immune system is passed on from the
mother to the pups, and the mites can migrate to the pups
from the mom shortly after birth. After generations of being
fed kibbles, which are a "dead" food, the mom will have
little immunity to pass on to her pups, and she will harbor
plenty of demodectic mites in her pores ready to migrate to
the pups that her own immune system is keeping in check.
That is the sum total of the relationship between demodectic
mites and how it is "inherited" from the mom by her pups.
So, you HAVE demodex and don't know what to do about
it? Can it be treated naturally? YES! In fact, I would highly
recommend it. The conventional path is highly toxic (as
evidenced if you've ever seen a dog after it's dipped) and
can keep your pet's immune system weakened for life.
There is usually absolutely no reason for this, in my
experience.
Here is the holistic protocol:
1) Feed an anti-yeast diet (LINK TO ALLERGY/YEAST
ARTICLE). Mites feed on the systemic yeast or yeast living
in the body, and systemic yeast feed on nutritional yeast and
sugars (carbohydrates). If you break the cycle, you weaken
or starve the systemic yeast and then the mites cannot
colonize in the pores, crowding and pushing out the hairs
and migrating to other pores looking for food.
This is the reason for grainless diet (ESPECIALLY NO
WHEAT OR NUTRITIONAL YEAST OF ANY KIND)
with only meat, bones and low glycemic fruits and veggies
(green leafy, not root veggies), or in other words, only
foods that do not readily raise your pet's blood sugar.
Plain kefir is a wonderful anti-yeast food, in moderation.
Plain yogurt is a secondary substitute.
Acidophilus/lactobacillus (pro-biotics) supplementation is
preferred because overall, dairy will feed yeast. No cheese,
no cottage cheese. If grains have to be used, make sure
they are whole grains and not refined. No sweeteners of any
kind, including molasses, honey, etc. Many have reported
good results from supplementing with Immune Factor
bovine colostrum, which is a pro-biotic that works in the
lower digestive tract.
If feeding kibble, I would recommend Flint River Ranch
Lamb/millet/rice kibble. This can be ordered by calling
(909) 682-5048 and telling them you were referred by
distributor AK53 (Cat Donnelly). If you have a hard time
getting through, I would be glad to call your order in for
you. Your food will come via UPS. Be sure to have me
send you the feeding guidelines since you feed so much less
than most commercial foods. The cost "as fed" should work
out to be very close to most commercial kibbles, even
though the cost per pound is more.
2) Make sure the pup gets LOTS of rest! This is crucial. If
the pup is in a high traffic area, it is important to put a crate
in a quiet room and give him frequent rest periods.
3) Fresh air and sunshine are very therapeutic. Regular
exercise and playtime is a must. Think HEALTHY. Do
what the dog loves. Channel his energies by training him,
teaching him tricks. Oxygenating the blood is an important
part of an anti-yeast regimen. Yeast thrive in moist, dark
places with little to no oxygen.
4) NO STRESS. If you are in a stressful relationship, make
a choice, the partner or the pup must go for the good of the
pup. I am dead serious. You may be faced with giving the
pup up to a better home for his/her own good if you are not
willing to give up the partner. If your pup has a high stress
personality, perhaps some Primorye Pet would be in order.
Go to oxyfreshww.com and use 180606370 as the referring
distributor.
The most stressful part of a female pup's life is being in heat. If you cannot
get this under control quickly, do not put her through the stress of being in
heat. The stress of the spay operation is far less than what you will see erupt
during the heat cycle, believe me when I tell you that I speak from
experience.
5) On top of a good diet, I highly recommend supplementing with
anti-oxidants (I carry Oxyfresh Pet Anti-oxidants or K&R's Super
OxyGreen), or you can supplement with separate anti-oxidant vitamins like
Vit C and Vit E. It's usually cheaper to go combo. The recommended daily
dosage is Vit C 250 - 1,000 milligrams depending on size, vitamin E 100 IU
to 400 IU.
Other supplements to consider are apple cider vinegar in the water (a scant
tsp will do, it's very strong), and vitamin 'F' or essential fatty acids. Essential
fatty acids will help the skin heal quickly and the hair/fur to grow back. I
carry an excellent line from K&R Naturals called MaxiDerm.
For demodex, I highly recommend Nupro liver-flavored vitamin/mineral
powder which also contains pro-biotics AND essential fatty acids as well. It
also contains lecithin with is great for the immune system and healing. The
manufacturer makes Nupro specially for us at Alternative Pets without any
nutritional yeast. Don't let the dosage scare you off, you can cut it in half
after the first 8 weeks.
Echinacea and Goldenseal can be used internally, and also externally on the
affected skin (for secondary staph). It is both an anti-fungal and also aids in
healing.
6) Our most powerful anti-yeast tool by far is Yeast & Fungal Detox which
is a tincture your give 3x/day in water. It can be given in food if you double
the dosage. This ensures that you are not only weakening the yeast, but
really eradicating it. Typically the dog will go through a "healing crisis" for a
day or two, and then they will be phenomenally better.
get this under control quickly, do not put her through the stress of being in
heat. The stress of the spay operation is far less than what you will see erupt
during the heat cycle, believe me when I tell you that I speak from
experience.
5) On top of a good diet, I highly recommend supplementing with
anti-oxidants (I carry Oxyfresh Pet Anti-oxidants or K&R's Super
OxyGreen), or you can supplement with separate anti-oxidant vitamins like
Vit C and Vit E. It's usually cheaper to go combo. The recommended daily
dosage is Vit C 250 - 1,000 milligrams depending on size, vitamin E 100 IU
to 400 IU.
Other supplements to consider are apple cider vinegar in the water (a scant
tsp will do, it's very strong), and vitamin 'F' or essential fatty acids. Essential
fatty acids will help the skin heal quickly and the hair/fur to grow back. I
carry an excellent line from K&R Naturals called MaxiDerm.
For demodex, I highly recommend Nupro liver-flavored vitamin/mineral
powder which also contains pro-biotics AND essential fatty acids as well. It
also contains lecithin with is great for the immune system and healing. The
manufacturer makes Nupro specially for us at Alternative Pets without any
nutritional yeast. Don't let the dosage scare you off, you can cut it in half
after the first 8 weeks.
Echinacea and Goldenseal can be used internally, and also externally on the
affected skin (for secondary staph). It is both an anti-fungal and also aids in
healing.
6) Our most powerful anti-yeast tool by far is Yeast & Fungal Detox which
is a tincture your give 3x/day in water. It can be given in food if you double
the dosage. This ensures that you are not only weakening the yeast, but
really eradicating it. Typically the dog will go through a "healing crisis" for a
day or two, and then they will be phenomenally better.
The healing crisis may include fever, eye
exudate, mucus from the nose, yeast ears
(use Ear Wash & Dry), itchy skin
eruptions (Aller'G Free, Dermaplex
shampoo and Rejuva spray or Rejuva Gel
helps), and can even include a little
diarrhea. This is the only way the body can
eradicate the yeast, and the mites that feed
on the yeast. Do not panic, it will get
better. Any acute symptoms are rare and
should be immediately evaluated by a
veterinarian.
7) Zinc is also helpful during this treatment.
You can feed ground pumpkin seeds or 10
- 30 milligrams of chelated zinc tablets.
8) Absolutely NO vaccinations until the
crisis is over and behind you for quite
some time. Tell your veterinarian that you
want a health waiver until the pup is clear
of demodex for at least 2 months or more.
It says on the vaccine vials that they should
ONLY be given to healthy animals.
exudate, mucus from the nose, yeast ears
(use Ear Wash & Dry), itchy skin
eruptions (Aller'G Free, Dermaplex
shampoo and Rejuva spray or Rejuva Gel
helps), and can even include a little
diarrhea. This is the only way the body can
eradicate the yeast, and the mites that feed
on the yeast. Do not panic, it will get
better. Any acute symptoms are rare and
should be immediately evaluated by a
veterinarian.
7) Zinc is also helpful during this treatment.
You can feed ground pumpkin seeds or 10
- 30 milligrams of chelated zinc tablets.
8) Absolutely NO vaccinations until the
crisis is over and behind you for quite
some time. Tell your veterinarian that you
want a health waiver until the pup is clear
of demodex for at least 2 months or more.
It says on the vaccine vials that they should
ONLY be given to healthy animals.
Since demodex is considered life threatening in some cases (usually only
because it's mismanaged with suppressive and toxic therapies), you cannot
damage the immune system further with vaccinations at this time. The key is
that you need to enforce the immune system, not give it something ELSE to try
to deal with. That makes NO sense. If your vet doesn't agree, find one who
will. It is essential. Also, using cortisone on demodectic dogs will almost make
treating the disease impossible.
9) Find ways to control parasites naturally. Nature's Finest Herbal Wormer
can be used monthly to keep tapeworm and other parasites under control. It
contains ground walnut hull which is what naturalists use to keep heartworm in
check. You can also use aromatherapy (Aromaleigh Flea Spritz) to keep fleas
and mosquitoes away. You can place beneficial nematodes and plant lemon
grasses in the yard. There is a wealth of information out there to keep you
away from putting poison in your dog each month (apparently heartworm
preventative incidentally is only needed every 6 weeks but they think the
general public is too stupid to grasp that and so make it monthly), plus another
dab of toxin between the shoulder blades. There are other ways to handle it in
my opinion. It might take more work, but the end result is a healthier dog and
a healthier you (you don't need those toxins in your environment either).
10) Dr. Pitcairn recommends the homeopathic Sulphur 6x with daily doses
over a period of 4 weeks. At each treatment, place just one pellet or tablet on
the tongue or down the throat (without touching it yourself). Do not feed your
pet 10 minutes before or after this treatment. When the condition is obviously
clearing up, taper off of the treatments by giving the doses further apart. If
there isn't a complete cure in 4 weeks, then you can continue the treatment for
as long as it helps for a period of several months (but this is rare).
11) Dr. Pitcairn recommends a five day fast before starting the program if the
dog is at a good weight and it's overall health is good. A fast is something you
ease into and ease out of, and he has complete instructions in Chapter 15 of
his book, Dr. Pitcairn's Complete Guide to Natural Health for Dogs and Cats.
More information on yeast eradication is available in the allergy/ yeast article.
Contact me directly with any questions. The preceding article is a nutritional
recommendation, and should not be a substitute for quality veterinary care.
because it's mismanaged with suppressive and toxic therapies), you cannot
damage the immune system further with vaccinations at this time. The key is
that you need to enforce the immune system, not give it something ELSE to try
to deal with. That makes NO sense. If your vet doesn't agree, find one who
will. It is essential. Also, using cortisone on demodectic dogs will almost make
treating the disease impossible.
9) Find ways to control parasites naturally. Nature's Finest Herbal Wormer
can be used monthly to keep tapeworm and other parasites under control. It
contains ground walnut hull which is what naturalists use to keep heartworm in
check. You can also use aromatherapy (Aromaleigh Flea Spritz) to keep fleas
and mosquitoes away. You can place beneficial nematodes and plant lemon
grasses in the yard. There is a wealth of information out there to keep you
away from putting poison in your dog each month (apparently heartworm
preventative incidentally is only needed every 6 weeks but they think the
general public is too stupid to grasp that and so make it monthly), plus another
dab of toxin between the shoulder blades. There are other ways to handle it in
my opinion. It might take more work, but the end result is a healthier dog and
a healthier you (you don't need those toxins in your environment either).
10) Dr. Pitcairn recommends the homeopathic Sulphur 6x with daily doses
over a period of 4 weeks. At each treatment, place just one pellet or tablet on
the tongue or down the throat (without touching it yourself). Do not feed your
pet 10 minutes before or after this treatment. When the condition is obviously
clearing up, taper off of the treatments by giving the doses further apart. If
there isn't a complete cure in 4 weeks, then you can continue the treatment for
as long as it helps for a period of several months (but this is rare).
11) Dr. Pitcairn recommends a five day fast before starting the program if the
dog is at a good weight and it's overall health is good. A fast is something you
ease into and ease out of, and he has complete instructions in Chapter 15 of
his book, Dr. Pitcairn's Complete Guide to Natural Health for Dogs and Cats.
More information on yeast eradication is available in the allergy/ yeast article.
Contact me directly with any questions. The preceding article is a nutritional
recommendation, and should not be a substitute for quality veterinary care.
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